Aliens or Mastercams?

Apr 4, 2012

Steph, Thank you for posting those articles about small gear and racking on your blog. Also, you got some kick ass clips in movies, I really like the one on the diamond. That must have been an amazing experience to say the least. I am just starting to get my trad on and needless to say, it is the most engaging and demanding thing i have ever tried. I was wondering if you could possibly clear up a few things for me. I have a set of TCUs and love them! but need to double those sizes up as I…

How To Size Climbing Shoes?

Mar 20, 2012

hi Steph, quick question: i am a rookie climber – started end of december. but lets just say it was love at first boulder problem… i tried out the la sportivas at first, but they weren’t quite right. plus they were men’s shoes and i am female so that wasn’t quite right either… but climbed with them for about a month and a half.. then read your blog about evolvs. i purchased the evolv elektra VTR shoes (womens which is also better because i am switching from veggie to vegan currently, so the friendlier the better!) and while i have…

How Rock Shoes Get Made

Mar 12, 2012

At the beginning of this year, I made a big switch.  I decided to start wearing Evolv shoes, after many years with Five Ten.  It was not an easy decision: I will always love Five Ten and my friends there, and they make great shoes!   For a climber, climbing shoes are the single most important thing.  Chris Sharma has become deeply involved with Evolv and with shoe design, a unique relationship which has been great for everyone, including climbers who get to wear the Shamans he created  (click on this link even if you already have Shamans, because the…

Good Karma Cams

Feb 21, 2012

Update to this story: we finished the silent auction last night, and received many generous bids. Thank you immensely to everyone who shared this post and sent in an offer!! The final bid came in over the actual retail cost. The check is going directly to Layton, and I know he will really appreciate it. Thank you climbers! One day I received an email: Hi Steph  I got double set of technical friends  most of them unused. all in  perfect  condition. they sit in a closet doing nothing. Do you think you could put them to use? I live in…

Climbing Gear For the Future: What’s Your Fantasy?

Jan 27, 2012

Hi Steph! My name is Tom, I’m a Product Design student at Pasadena Art Center College of Design. I’m currently working on a project thats focus is on developing protective gear for the year 2017, in class we were told to pick a sport to design some awesome gear for. I recently got into climbing (about a year ago) and have a huge passion for it (thanks for the inspiration), so naturally I chose climbing as my subject matter. I was wondering if I could pick your brain and ask you a few questions regarding challenges you face, safety measures, and overall…


Jan 5, 2012

Hi Steph, I see that you grow your own sprouts – I am looking into getting a sprouter. I’ve found that there are many different styles; I wonder if you have any suggestions on a good one. Thanks! Shannon Hi Shannon, I do grow sprouts: my friend Liv in France was growing them all the time, and it’s great to have fresh sprouts on your salad for dinner, especially in the winter. I have a pretty basic sprouter: it has 3 round trays, and a water catcher in the bottom. I have tried sprouting in a jar before, but it’s…

Small Cams and Falls

Dec 14, 2011

Hi Steph, Great article! Thanks for the tips on gear. I am currently waiting out a Yukon winter before I put some more mileage on my cams. I’m still a bit of a trad newbie. Can I ask what is probably a silly question? Is there a size of cam that will no longer hold a fall and are designed to be for aid? I’m looking at this chart from Metolius that says cams fail at around 9kN. Does that mean cams that are rated lower than this are just for aid? Duane Hi Duane, Brooke Sandahl is the VP…

Climbing Wall in the Tactic

Nov 21, 2011

Hi Steph, I enjoy your videos immensely. I show them to my middle school science students and they are inspired. Thank You! I saw your bouldering wall in the video called “The Tactic” on Vimeo and I am wondering if it is hinged at the bottom to allow for changes in its angle. If so, I am wondering how it was constructed. I have a new family and so do not get to the hills as much. I am looking to build a hinged wall on the back of my garage that would allow me to change the angles on…

Racking Tips for Crack Climbing

Nov 7, 2011

Yes, it is that most awesome time of year, crack season!!! Most of us have a preferred racking style, even down to which way we clip the draws on gear loops (I always clip mine with gate facing out). When climbing cracks, having a consistent, good racking system can make the difference between cruising and flailing. First, you need a gear sling, and it needs to be the right size. For a few years, I thought I “couldn’t use” gear slings, and it took me a pretty ridiculously long time to realize that the reason all the cams kept wedging…

When Goats Can Fly

Oct 30, 2011

I took my new canopy out for its maiden voyage today! Not only does it have the goat, but it’s magenta on top of it… Mao appears to approve. (phew)