Climbing Gear For the Future: What’s Your Fantasy?

Not very “futuristic” , but I could really use a steel ATC (Black Diamond)… I have one made by DMM, but it’s shape doesn’t work quite as well for lead belays.

Steel so it will last longer, instead of getting those razor-sharp edges where the rope runs?

I’m particularly keen to see gear that minimizes environmental impact.  This can take many forms.  For starters, gear that last longer . . . from shoes to cams to packs.  I love light gear, for instance, but I don’t want needlessly throw crap away because it wears out so easy.  Approach shoes are highly annoying to me in this case.  I just want some shoes that will last, can be resoled, etc.  Most shoes die in less than 12 months for me.  Climbing shoes too.  I hate seeing the glut of “cheap” shoes that are essentially throwaways.

Gear can be more direcly environmentally friendly as well.  If someone could make a crash pad that didn’t destroy vegetation, that would be cool . . . seems like quite a challenge.  

Another exciting thing is climbing in urban settings.  I’ve seen videos of climbing on urban structures from buildings to bridges, mostly in Europe of course.  This is a great way of revitalizing urban settings . . . basically turning gloomy places with near zero use value into incredible parks and social centers.  I’m sure some specific gear could make this happen in the us, such as climbing holds that weather well in an outside setting, etc. etc.   

thanks Chad, these are great ideas! now you have me thinking of futuristic self-inflating crash pad devices..

As someone who engages in many adventure sports: climbing, skiing, parachuting, etc., I’ve begun to see ‘fancy’ emerge in some gear, where form and multi-function seem to be favored over simplicity of design and reliability.

For example, one of my pet peeves is the Swiss Army Knife.  It does many things with absolute mediocrity, but doesn’t do anything superbly.  And because its design and construction are by necessity more complex than a simple pocket knife, failure is much more likely.  Further, because all of the components must be smaller to accommodate 42 tools in the same “knife”, there’s little chance I can use any of those tools with gloves or mittens on.  But I’m pretty sure I can use a simple pocket knife with my gloves or mittens on.  So to remain happy and reduce weight, I carry a simple pocket knife and a titanium spork.  Oh, and these cost me less than the ‘fancy’ knife.

Looking at climbing, I see similar things emerging.  We continue to see increasingly complex belay devices that are heavier, more complex, and arguably no better at providing safety (I say this because I believe they encourage lazy belaying).  Also, with the increased complexity of these devices, a supremely tired adventurer who is finishing some epic ascent may be more prone to mistakes.  So why would I carry some heavy, complex device that adds no more use cases, increases complexity, increases weight, and costs nine times what a simple ATC costs?

Backpacks and tents (from some manufacturers) have gone the same way.  A tent with 9 poles is going to be impossible to set up in the wind when I’m tired. Tents don’t need 9 poles.  A backpack with eleventeen zippers is going to make things hard to find when I most need to find them.   Backpacks don’t need eleventeen zippers.  When I’m embarking on some solo, unsupported adventure, I want to know that my gear is NOT GOING TO FAIL.  This demands simplicity.  As you add more poles and joints to a tent, there are more failure points, more weight, more cost, and more confusion.  When you add more zippers to a backpack, you must add more seams (failure points), more cost, more weight, and more confusion.

When I began climbing, all climbing gear had either zero or one moving parts. That was it.  All serious backpacks were top-loading, and had a cinch cord at the top.  I understand zippers are better than they were then.  But I still prefer simplicity over fancy.  Simple is reliable, cheap, light, and sexy.

I trust simple.

Yes, longer lasting, and less of that aluminum stuff on the rope… I use a steel belay biner as well, along with steel links &/or biners on my top anchor setup. Sure it’s heavier, but when sport climbing I’m not lugging as much other gear around. I’ve heard various things about heat dissipation, but never had any problems with that myself.

Day pack for gear or  Crag Backpack. i know there are a few options out there, but i feel like they could be batter. Like adding a detachable rope sack with rope mat. most rope bags suck and don’t fit/work well with any of my day bags.
A watertight picket for cellphone and camera, pocket for guide book.
my guide books get trashed in my bag. i feel like they would be in better shape if they had there own pocket to keep them from getting crushed by gear.

guide book Apps for iphone and ipad. that are connected to the Printed books. with GPS location on all routs. and photos of the routs with liens show where the start/end. Even better augmented reality apps!!!!!

Crash Pads with a detachable day pack  with Room for water (2 nalgenes), guide book, jacket/fleece, shoes , Lunch, camera and cellphone pocket( waterproof)

im sure i think of more soon.

I went to Art Center College of Design too. syked to see what come out of it.

Good Luck,

Opening scene of the latest mission impossible movie… nuff said. (re: kinda like Steph was saying about the inflatable crash pad)

For the indoor climbing environment, a device to securely attach a climbing hold to a climbing wall through a t-nut hole (without have to use a bolt that has to be screwed in and tightened.)  A setter puts the device through the hold, positions the device through the hole where s/he needs it to be, let’s go and the device clamps on from behind and doesn’t move. If someone invents this, you’ll make a gazillion bucks…

i hear you!!

yes, i don’t like black, aluminum-y hands.

awesome ideas!

that is a fantastic idea. you’re right!!

At the moment I only have one problem that needs to be solved: I need a decent climbing harness for pregnant women! Not full body, and one that is also easy if I have to belay. There are some fine full body harnesses available, ie Petzl 8003, but the tie in is at breast height and makes me feel awkward. I want total freedom of movement, no pressure on the belly and easy belay!
Not really futuristic maybe, but it’s the only thing i can think of at the moment
Cheers
Eva, 5 months pregnant

You know, it would be really nice if the cold/damp conditions didn’t keep me from climbing outside.  I’m definitely one of those freaks who will go when its freezing cold and its a bit frustrating when my fingers are too numb to feel myself screwing/unscrewing my locking carabiners at the anchors. I saw a segment about some guy who was deep-water soloing and he had a company put the same climbing shoe rubber on some golf gloves. He used those gloves to climb wet rock that was sharp. I thought that was an innovative idea. It would be nice to have something like that but a very sleek and warmish version Even if I weren’t able to crimp the smallest edges, it would be worth it to feel my fingers. 

that is a great idea: i have several friends who were climbing through pregnancy.

yes! i need those….

I definitely echo Steph on wanting gear that weighs significantly less.  Since climbing is all about your strength-to-weight ratio, the more you cut down on the weight you carry, the better! 

God, a near weightless rope sounds amazing…

Shelby
becomingoutdoorsy.com

it would be a huge breakthrough, especially for big routes.

From a protection point of view – I’ve always thought that if someone could invent a suction device that was sucky enough to withstand a lead fall, that would be a pretty cool thing! Think of all the slab routes that it would open up – and no more bolts necessary, just your suction cup devices hanging off your harness.

i think this is the best idea i ever heard in my life…

apart from how to make your own almond milk stef?

I would love to have light approach shoes that are made for fitting crampons on. A lot of approaches involve walking on glaciers and snow, but no technical ice/mixed climbing, and then a walk off, so you climb with your shoes and crampons in the pack. I sometimes use sneakers+crampons, but somteimes regret it . So I would like somthing more rigid, but light and not bulky.

another best idea ever! light is right…

A helmet that wears like a beanie, maybe with little turtle shell pieces that articulate. People wear beanies all the time while climbing, and helmets aren’t “cool” (i.e. any climbing magazine known to man). Why not make a helmet that is light, packable, and throw in a little style.
Design-wise the protective shell could be removable so the climber could interchange a thin material when it is hot and a big wooly layer to keep your noggin warm.

Really futuristic/improbable, a rope that can heal itself. Core shot? Put a band-aid on it.

A better crash pad

love it!

yes

I’ve been lusting after a home bouldering wall, but building takes up a lot of time that can be spent climbing, and most blueprints that I’ve seen take a lot of cash and space. What about some sort of inflatable bouldering gym? I’m thinking somewhere between  Fontainebleau and those bounce houses that are popular at fairs

a bouncy castle!! yeah!!!

I know there are load absorbing devices out there like Yates Screamers and the like.  However, a climber can only get one use out of them.  If someone were to invent a “Screamer” (sorry Yates, I don’t mean to infringe on any trademarks) that could be reloaded, for lack of a better term, think what that would do for reducing forces in falls.  If such a thing were invented, I think we would see the development of slings and runners of this nature, and perhaps even the slings that come on cams from the manufacturer would have this design.   Soft catches would almost be automatic.  There would be some negatives of course; like instances where ground or ledge fall is a potential hazard.  I wonder if any of the big names in climbing gear have thought about or are exploring this.  I love the smaller, less bulky helmet idea too.

I would assume pregnant women don’t climb hard during the last few months. A bad fall could possibly force premature birth.

not sure how long they climb, but definitely not at the very end.

From a climbing friend of mine: Climbing shoe material capable of adapting instantly to cold rock / hot rock / friction climbing / edging, etc. Indestructable webbing and beaners.

A new kind of camming device that can reliably hold in heavily flaring cracks and pockets

Pants/shorts that can hold a small amount of chalk that can be dispensed from the thigh region when you pat it… 

a blow up crash pad, a really durable, light, average size pad that could still protect from those haggard landings, but could fold and store for easy packing. it wouldnt be very hard to attach a small hand pump that will still be able to get the job done in reasonable time.

that would be nice…

oh yeah..

funny enough, Mammut made a pair of shorts like this a while ago, called “deep water soloing pants” but they just didn’t catch on..

seems to be some consensus so far that the world needs a better crash pad..

How ’bout a smaller, lighter version of the “Silent Partner” or other self belay device.  I don’t solo often but sometimes I have a free afternoon yet not enough time to round up a partner.  It’s nice to occasionally get on a lower grade and safely experiment.  This may also compliment the “featherweight” rope idea.

Upon learning that I have degenerative disc disease with cervical disc herniations, the doctor told me no more carrying heavy packs..that was one of my first questions. I thought how am I going to continue climbing if I can’t carry my gear uphill? Those wheelie suitcases have always been a pet hate of mine, but I thought that’s the only answer to continuing to have adventures. I started discussing the idea of finding an off-road wheelie pack to hoist my load on approaches with another friend over 40 whose joints are also suffering. Ridiculous maybe, but a solution? Who’d want to go on a trip with someone who can’t carry any gear and I’ve not the head for free soloing. 

Climbing in Ireland it would be nice to have a waterproof, breathable, lightweight, warm jacket with a hood for a helmet that closes over the zip completely to stop the rain getting in!!! It would be nice if gear was made as simple as possible…more components equals more chances to fail. I have an expensive tent that is almost impossible to pitch in the wind :-/

I have also had this thought. It would be pretty awesome.

Hi, Steph. Hello all. We at Mad Rock are trying to innovate some better pads for landing and the environment. 

Blow up pads WOULD negate ALL foam expense and waste. The world needs feedback like this. Hopefully we’re taking the first step by recycling used foam from big factories for our new R3 Pad. Should anyone come across or use one, let us know what you think. You can reach us from our website.  

Thanks for the great post and conversation, Steph! 

Also, I personally enjoy veganism. And I learned that veganism reduces my ecological footprint almost more than anything else. Go V!

Bolt gun- Cliffhanger style.   Bolting takes time, and it’s not that I want the masses out there bolting every piece of rock that they can get their hands on, but it’d be sweet if instead of hand-drilling (on certain fs land) or dragging out the power drill- you could just click a button and bam! brand new bolt!

Also,  it would also be awesome to see some way to protect slab routes (like ob suggested)

it’s an intriguing idea, and kind of reminds me of the first ascent of the Nose

High quality boots and rock shoes with absolutely no leather.  I love my La Sportivas, but after becoming vegan and especially after watching Earthings, it feels very uncomfortable and shameful to continue to support destruction of innocent animals for leather products, including our beloved boots.  It’s not even much of a stretch; the technology is already there. 

I agree with you….this is the main reason I’m working with Evolv now. they are using some leather, but getting performance and high quality from synthetic is a high priority for them and we are working on designing some shoes with this goal

I love this idea, I’ve always wondered about gear like this that assist climbers and if they would be willing to change something they’ve been using forever. Do you think they would be willing to try something as new as this?

First of all thanks Steph and everyone else for taking the time to engage in these questions! I love that fact that I can actually design with fellow climbers as opposed to just doing what I think is best, so thanks! I look forward to reading and replying to all your posts, and if it’s ok with Steph I’d love to keep you all updated with my project (:

Tom

I totally agree, it’s often difficult to find the balance between simplicity and functional. As designers we always want to make things look awesome, I’ve come to realize the challenge is designing great gear that doesn’t take away from the sport itself.

do you think the “cool” factor is the only thing that keeps climbers away from the construction-site looking helmets? does it mess with your peripherals as well?

love the band-aid haha, tape’s a good option too maybe (:

That movie inspired my friends to start climbing! love it.

I actually pitched this idea for my project, I think the crash pad is due for some redesigning. A big problem for me is when terrain is uneven, my pad is always at an angle – more prone to spraining my ankles. Is this a problem for you guys? How do you work around that?

agreed.

Alex, love the crash pad idea. I often see climbers just shove their gear in the folds of the pad, and I know that Organic crash pads come with pouches, but something like that would be awesome.

reminds me of the self-inflating sleeping mats that are out there right now. A more durable larger version of this would be great (:

Hey All,

I think an inflatable crash pad would be a revolutionary idea. Imagine being able to roll it up (like a sleeping pad) and throw it in your crag bag! This would save space, improve mobility, and allow you to carry more protection. My only concern would be its durability. This sort of pad would last longer in the sense that it will never bottom out, but is it possible to guarantee that it will never pop? Crash pads, as they are currently constructed, have a 0% failure rate, and unless this pad could guarantee the same reliability, I can’t imagine people using it as their main pad (though it would be great to add extra pro to your main pad). Popping the pad on a fall could mean a broken ankle or worse! And how comfortable would landing on air feel?

Thanks for posting up this thread! This is a very thought provoking discussion!

A very thin crashpad that can cover any rocks or features that make for an awkward landing. I’m imagining the material to be as thin as a yoga mat without sacrificing a solid landing like we get on the crashpads we use today.

That’s really good to hear about you and Evolv.   I’ll look out for the new synthetics in the future and be one of the first in line to climb with them.  Seemingly small changes like this really aren’t so small; they really do make a difference. 

jetpack 

On this note, I’d like to see climbing chalk that goes away on it’s own.  It would be great if chalk broke down and disappeared after touching rock.

I would like a system that can be added to climbing wall to generate a adjustable crack for climbing (it can rapidly be changed from a finger crack to an off-width). The system should also permit the placement of nuts and cam, so to do trad climb inside!

a crack machine would be sweet.

Reuseable climbing tape” because I feel so wasteful every time I pull the tape off my hands and throw it away! Even recyclable tape would be a start…

I hear you….. good idea