Fingerboard Training 101

Thanks for this workout. I like the fact that it is do-able for a beginner like me, but will also be beneficial as I get stronger.

You’re welcome! Let me know how it goes!
S

That wall is AWESOME! You have a better bouldering wall in your backyard then most gyms do! Great post too. It is amazing the lengths we are willing to go to get strong, especially if we have been in that position before. Fingerboard, campus board and system board workouts can be just as mentally challenging as they are physically. Motivating yourself to push through those boring workouts is key. Partners, music, a comfortable workout area (weeding the garden on rest time is genius!) and projects fresh in your mind are all ingredients that help trudge through those laborious workout regiments.

I love the pink and purple duct tape to “make sure people like them”! Does that mean they are the climbing population’s most liked colors? is that your personal wall? Awesome!

Can you elaborate on the type of exercises you do with weights that you find benefit your climbing?

Ooh! New post.
Did you build your wall very much all at once or a little bit at a time?
Also, good to know I’m not the only one who fixates on a favorite activity or color tape or what have you.

I think I will do another post about weight lifting for climbing

I had two friends build my wall for me, about seven years ago. Originally the landing area was made of old mattresses, which was pretty ghetto.

About five years ago, I had the gravel project. We laid down old railroad ties (bought from the local hardware store) as the frame, and then used a wheelbarrow to cart in 16 tons of pea gravel. Believe it or not, the pea gravel moving was done by two climbers in one afternoon and one night. They had some additional, um, motivation to help them work, and lights. It can be hard to get climbers working, but boy, when they do….

Pink and purple duct tape are the prettiest, of course, and that’s why I like them the best!!
S

Also, regarding climbers: good part about hanging out with a lot of really strong guys is knowing that if anyone messes with you they have a group of climbers to contend with.

nice post Simple and to the point.
you seem to have come across the secret trick to fingerboarding – less is more.
Brilliant photos also – it’s what made the difference to the post.
Neal (aka @theusualsuspect

You are so right Neal, less always does seem to be more, doesn’t it! I’m glad you like the pictures!
S

Can’t wait to try this out! I’ll do anything to speed up my progress. Looking forward to the weight training workout – I’ve lifted for swimming, adventure racing, and figure competitions, but never climbing!

you must be a mind-reader, because questions regarding this very activity have been rolling around my brain for the past week or two. thank you for the post.

Let me know how it goes!

like Katie, i’m also looking forward to your future post on weight training. back to the post at hand, though … as a noodly-armed weakling, pullups are pretty much a not-happening thing for me. i could modify the routine to include weight-assisted pullups (say, stand on a stool) and i’d assume that to be at least somewhat effective. what about plain, old dead hangs? is there a place for those?

Can you do one pullup? If so, start with that. Your pyramid can start with one on the jug, and go down through two or three more sets of one down the different holds, then back “up.” If you need a foot on a stool, sure, why not? If you do whatever you can, and keep doing it, you will see progress. I know it doesn’t seem like much, but if you do 6 sets of one, you’ve done 6 pullups. You will be surprised at the improvement after a week or two.

Just use this workout as a template, and step back as much as you need, while still following the concept…pretty much, whatever you can do is the right place to start. As with everything, just get started, no matter how small, and you will definitely get stronger.
Steph

[...] Fingerboard Training 101 [...]

I’ve just got back into climbing after a 12 year break. I’ve bought myself a new finger board and have been trying your workout routine. It works. Thanks for the advice. I wish my local clibing wall had a bouldering section that looked as good as yours. I also wish I could put a decent wall in my garden but I live in rainy Britain so even if I did, I wouldn’t be able to use it that often.

It is pretty unique to live in the desert, and be able to have an outdoor climbing wall! Unfortunately it is pretty much out of season and unclimbable for all of the summer months, so we do have our price to pay But for the winter, it is absolutely perfect.

[...] Steph Davis: It is pretty unique to live in the deser… [...]

Steph, do you rest at the end of each pyramid, or between the pull-ups on each hold?

Hi Brian! I take a rest at the end of each set of pull-ups. This is a good opportunity for gardening.

[...] always give improvement. I wrote a post about the workout I like to do, and it definitely helps: Fingerboard Training 101. As far as stoves go, I love the MSR Pocketrocket with the titanium teakettle. I am a fanatic about [...]

i am interested in building a 24 foot high by 8 wide outdoor plywood climbing gym. Any feedback or plan connections, hints, hard lessons learned? How did you support yours?

Rob

Hi Rob,
It is 2×6 construction, with 4×4 posts coming down in the front and also in the center, with a top beam for support. Mine is built directly on the dirt, which was probably not the smartest thing. In retrospect, it would be worth the extra time to do some kind of footer/foundation–whether actually pouring cement, or perhaps digging in cinderblocks.
Good luck, I hope it turns out great!!
Steph

Hi Steph,

I was just planing my fingerboard workout for tonight and found your page while looking for some more ideas online. It’s incredible that a world famous climber like you takes the time to share her workout experiences with everyone who wants to read about it. While your name is know to me only from climbing videos and impressive stories, your wonderfully personable responses show genuine caring and your down to earth attitude.

I planed to periodize my own fingerboard workout into a 2-3 week hypertrophy phase, a 2-3 week power phase and possibly 2 weeks of endurance at the end. Practically that will result for hypertrophy in 3-6sets of 10 reps (always 7second hangs and 3 second breaks for 1min and 40sec.) Only in the power phase I was planing to do pull ups and catches on the fingerboard. What do you think about splitting up power, strength, and endurance training for climbing?

Thank you very much for making climbing a sport where it is possible to read about the workout routines of the best not only in a book.

Your site made my day.
Tammo

Hey guys, If you’re really curious about weight training for climbing, the most important word you can learn is “antagonist.” It’s most important to work your push muscles(chest/tri’s) to stabalize your pull muscles(back/bi’s) and prevent injury. This can be accomplished by doing light weight with high repititions.But bodyweight excercises such as pushups and dips are the best for climbing. 3 sets of 10-12 reps is optimal. Compliments of Eric Horst

P.S. Great post Steph. I too have noticed huge contact strength gains on my fingerboard.

[...] Tpup is a member of the Tweep PullUp Team – as intiated and defined by Steph Davis who started this movement today and I think is amused and tickled by how many of us are catching [...]

[...] for diversity is always good. I have a few blog posts on this site about weight training and fingerboard workouts that could give you a place to [...]

[...] you are new to climbing, please be really careful about your fingers. Fingerboards are good, and will make your fingers stronger, as well as get you doing more pullups, but as with base [...]

[...] surgery, I also used the weight room a lot, every day, in fact. I did tons of pullups and also did fingerboard workouts, since the only thing that was not okay was just my left leg. By the time my leg was recovered, I [...]

[...] a post I wrote about what I do with my fingerboard, and a guest post from Eric Horst with more fingerboard [...]

I love this post.  I don’t get a chance to climb much because of conflicting schedules with my partner(s) (I work nights, blah) but I don’t want to lose what I’ve gained as far as finger and grip strength so I work out twice a week on my fingerboard.  I tweaked one of my fingers pretty good a few months ago trying to do too much too fast and using holds too small for my current strength level at the time.  When your body tells you something’s wrong, listen.  I never thought about going this simple.  I usually do static hangs in between my pullups sets.  I’m going to give this a try.  Thanks!

let me know if it works