I have a quick question about injuries. Last week I suffered an oblique fracture on my second toe from a non-climbing related injury- it’s quote ‘mildly’ displaced according to my doctor. Bottom line I’ll survive. However, as someone who has never had an injury before I am fairly devastated. Especially as this comes during a time I was training to head out to Indian Creek for some cracks at the end of March. My doctor says this could take as long as 4 weeks to heal — my trip is in 2.5.
My question is this — when you have ‘minor’ injuries like this what are some exercises I can do to keep in crack shape, while not using my foot. Secondly, when I DO start stuffing my toes in cracks again, how do I
a) keep it protected from being fractured again
b) mentally not be scared to weight it (because right now I am!)
Thanks as always and can’t wait to read your new book!
Mainly you need to wait it out with a toe. If it’s displaced, twisting it in a rock shoe may not be ideal for it. I’d say be willing to experiment with tape, and be prepared to be either pleasantly or unpleasantly surprised. If it hurts way too much, you won’t want to weight it. I’ve noticed the nervousness goes away pretty quick if you are trying to weight it and it’s not hurt anymore.