Comments on: Handjams Are Your Friends: Crack Technique http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/ A climber and jumper Sat, 11 Feb 2012 02:29:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: Megan http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-1719 Megan Thu, 16 Oct 2008 19:59:02 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-1719 so I can't quote it exactly, as I've lent my book to a friend, but I wanted to thank you for the words "I could no longer live the life of a college student. I had no chioce. I had to become a dirtbag climber." As soon as I read that my doubts and worries slipped away (for that moment anyways:)) and I knew what I had to do. So thanks for putting into words my, and I'm sure many peoples, feelings, so blunt and to the point, because when you are a climber, thats what you do, you can't help it. Continue to rock out, be a bad ass, youself, and an amazingly possitive contributor to this wonderful thing called climbing and life! so I can’t quote it exactly, as I’ve lent my book to a friend, but I wanted to thank you for the words “I could no longer live the life of a college student. I had no chioce. I had to become a dirtbag climber.” As soon as I read that my doubts and worries slipped away (for that moment anyways:)) and I knew what I had to do. So thanks for putting into words my, and I’m sure many peoples, feelings, so blunt and to the point, because when you are a climber, thats what you do, you can’t help it. Continue to rock out, be a bad ass, youself, and an amazingly possitive contributor to this wonderful thing called climbing and life!

]]> By: Mike http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-1534 Mike Thu, 24 Jul 2008 00:21:47 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-1534 "I'm having a fashion crisis Dean! Don't you know what's important here?" ;) When i first saw those two free solos in Masters of Stone V I was pretty amazed to say the least! Deans climb of the Nose wasn't too shabby either. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, great pictures and stories here. I love reading them!! From a Canadian fan, eh “I’m having a fashion crisis Dean! Don’t you know what’s important here?” ;)

When i first saw those two free solos in Masters of Stone V I was pretty amazed to say the least! Deans climb of the Nose wasn’t too shabby either. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, great pictures and stories here. I love reading them!!

From a Canadian fan, eh

]]> By: Steph Davis http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-1533 Steph Davis Wed, 23 Jul 2008 00:01:43 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-1533 Thank you Bjorn! That is great! It's good to know that the North Face is cool and climbable all summer long. If you come in July or August, don't start too early. It gets first sun until about 9 am in these two months, which is strange because in September and October, the sun does not hit it at all. Who knows, maybe I'll see you up there! Have a great time! xx Steph Thank you Bjorn! That is great! It’s good to know that the North Face is cool and climbable all summer long. If you come in July or August, don’t start too early. It gets first sun until about 9 am in these two months, which is strange because in September and October, the sun does not hit it at all. Who knows, maybe I’ll see you up there! Have a great time!
xx Steph

]]> By: Bjoern http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-1532 Bjoern Tue, 22 Jul 2008 21:40:58 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-1532 Hi Steph, you also have fans in Germany!!! We read in a climbing mag that you free soloed the North Face of Castleton tower and did afterwards a base jump from the top. ;))) We were inspired enough to come to Moab and try the route ourselves! Hope to meet some wild desert tower climbers! Cheers, Björn & friends Hi Steph,

you also have fans in Germany!!!
We read in a climbing mag that you free soloed the North Face of Castleton tower and did afterwards a base jump from the top. ;) ))

We were inspired enough to come to Moab and try the route ourselves! Hope to meet some wild desert tower climbers!

Cheers, Björn & friends

]]> By: Neno Mattos http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-1531 Neno Mattos Sun, 20 Jul 2008 01:27:10 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-1531 Hi, I'm a huge fan of you and Dean since your article on climbing magazine of soloing Spaceshot, and of course of Dean Potter for all those crazy things he does. One friend of Brazil (Eduardo) told me the crash pad I manufactured (from V15) were left with Dean, so I'm here to say "hi" since our world crossed up thanks to our climbing history !!!! Hope to know you guys one day!!!! Keep climbin' Neno Hi, I’m a huge fan of you and Dean since your article on climbing magazine of soloing Spaceshot, and of course of Dean Potter for all those crazy things he does. One friend of Brazil (Eduardo) told me the crash pad I manufactured (from V15) were left with Dean, so I’m here to say “hi” since our world crossed up thanks to our climbing history !!!!
Hope to know you guys one day!!!!
Keep climbin’
Neno

]]> By: cliff thomas http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-1176 cliff thomas Fri, 21 Mar 2008 23:01:29 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-1176 so great to find your website - after reading about your amazing work - I'm from the 70's Yosemite days - made family and business and am now getting re-involved with climbing. Women are not only participating now, but dominating the climbing, Really cool to see. I would like to get a poster of you if this is something available - happy to send you postage and poster costs. I'm Cliff Thomas at 551 w cordova rd. #420, santa fe, NM 87505 505-989-1859. Thank you for all the beta on your site. Back when 5.9 was hard I thought I was doing ok - whoah not so much now - but I still love it. Thanks Cliff so great to find your website – after reading about your amazing work – I’m from the 70′s Yosemite days – made family and business and am now getting re-involved with climbing. Women are not only participating now, but dominating the climbing, Really cool to see.
I would like to get a poster of you if this is something available – happy to send you postage and poster costs. I’m Cliff Thomas at 551 w cordova rd. #420, santa fe, NM 87505 505-989-1859.
Thank you for all the beta on your site. Back when 5.9 was hard I thought I was doing ok – whoah not so much now – but I still love it.
Thanks
Cliff

]]> By: steph http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-971 steph Wed, 30 Jan 2008 18:31:32 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-971 Dear Tom, I know that crack! It is hard :) It sounds like you are doing things right. I would suggest you really make an effort to put your thumb in, and use your fingers like an "okay" sign. The most important thing, of course, is your feet. Usually flared cracks are interesting because the jams are so awful, but the feet are much much better than regular parallel cracks. I have found that the foot jams are unbelievably good in flares, even better than I expect them to be. Since this is a little project for you, I would recommend that you spend some time on that section focusing on your feet, and realizing just how solid they actually are. Then try to do one move at a time, experimenting with the ring locks as more of a balance, upward-momentum tool while you work the feet. I hope this helps a little!! Have fun! xx Steph Dear Tom,
I know that crack! It is hard :) It sounds like you are doing things right. I would suggest you really make an effort to put your thumb in, and use your fingers like an “okay” sign. The most important thing, of course, is your feet. Usually flared cracks are interesting because the jams are so awful, but the feet are much much better than regular parallel cracks. I have found that the foot jams are unbelievably good in flares, even better than I expect them to be. Since this is a little project for you, I would recommend that you spend some time on that section focusing on your feet, and realizing just how solid they actually are. Then try to do one move at a time, experimenting with the ring locks as more of a balance, upward-momentum tool while you work the feet.
I hope this helps a little!! Have fun!
xx Steph

]]> By: Tom Turrentine http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-934 Tom Turrentine Thu, 24 Jan 2008 22:01:55 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-934 Steph, I recently am making some progress in crack technique, and was climbing an artificial crack at Mission Cliffs in SF. I've gotten good at parallel thin hands and thumb locks, but I got stopped cold at a thin hands/ flare section about 6-7 feet long. I have pretty big mitts. The feet are thin, and the crack is like 1 inch deep at the back, and 1 1/4 at the edge, which is round, so stops me from using a thumb lock on the edge. Seems about 12a. It feels like I'm trying to stuff a gel pack in the flare at head height, while poking my toes in, and my knees bent sidewqys more than a 53 year old should bend his knees.I can't seem to find something that feels solid. Any miracle techniques? Steph,

I recently am making some progress in crack technique, and was climbing an artificial crack at Mission Cliffs in SF. I’ve gotten good at parallel thin hands and thumb locks, but I got stopped cold at a thin hands/ flare section about 6-7 feet long. I have pretty big mitts. The feet are thin, and the crack is like 1 inch deep at the back, and 1 1/4 at the edge, which is round, so stops me from using a thumb lock on the edge. Seems about 12a. It feels like I’m trying to stuff a gel pack in the flare at head height, while poking my toes in, and my knees bent sidewqys more than a 53 year old should bend his knees.I can’t seem to find something that feels solid. Any miracle techniques?

]]> By: steph http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-841 steph Tue, 08 Jan 2008 14:09:48 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-841 Dear Brad, I would be more than happy to send Kianna a poster for her room :) If you could email me with a mailing address, that would be great! Take care! xx Steph Dear Brad,
I would be more than happy to send Kianna a poster for her room :) If you could email me with a mailing address, that would be great!
Take care!
xx Steph

]]> By: Brad Killough http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/handjams-are-your-friends-crack-technique/comment-page-1/#comment-831 Brad Killough Fri, 04 Jan 2008 23:03:11 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=306#comment-831 Hey Steph, My granddaughter is 7 yrs. old and would love to have your autograph, her name is Kianna and she love's you and is a climbing nut, like her paw-paw, me, haha. Her climbing passion ,even at 7 remind's me of the way you are about climbing! So, anything I can do to get our kid's climbing is what I want to do. They are the one's we will hand our climbing future off to. Hey Steph,
My granddaughter is 7 yrs. old and would love to have your autograph, her name is Kianna and she love’s you and is a climbing nut, like her paw-paw, me, haha. Her climbing passion ,even at 7 remind’s me of the way you are about climbing! So, anything I can do to get our kid’s climbing is what I want to do. They are the one’s we will hand our climbing future off to.

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