Loving Life

From the same Climbing Mag, Congrats on your Golden Piton – Honorable Mention…. Rock on Sista !

Thanks Mike!

Steph,
I went back and read that article on hand jams. Previously, I had been completelly unable to climb even a relatively straightforward hand crack. My wife and I are still pretty new to the sport but we climb a few times a week and were at the 5.10-11ish level in terms of face climbs – but we both admire the ethic and beauty of trad cracks and that’s really where we’d like to be climbing (plus we’re moving from the east cost to Utah this summer!). That being said, neither of us could figure out how to climb a crack to save our lives – even climbing with decent crack climbers it just hadn’t clicked yet. I know that it’s not normal to read an article and jump several number grades, but after reading that we went to the crag and sent a moderate splitter with surprising ease. So we tried a slightly overhung 10ish crack (still really solid hands) and both sent that as well. We’re still working on thin hands, fingers, etc, but I was blown away by how quickly the feeling of a solid jam just stuck once the lightbulb went off. Grades aside, it was probably the most fun I’ve had at the crag since my first time climbing. So thanks for the tips!

Hi Mark, I am so happy to hear that! I am really delighted to know the tips helped you out, and made you have so much fun! Thanks for writing and letting me know! I hope you have many days of awesome crack climbing ahead….
Steph