A little over a year ago, just before my birthday, I was seized with the urge to free solo Jah Man on Sister Superior and base jump off it. In 2008, I free soloed the North Face of Castleton and jumped off the top, and it remains one of my favorite adventures of all time. [...]
Hi Steph, Great article! Thanks for the tips on gear. I am currently waiting out a Yukon winter before I put some more mileage on my cams. I’m still a bit of a trad newbie. Can I ask what is probably a silly question? Is there a size of cam that will no longer hold [...]
Yes, it is that most awesome time of year, crack season!!! Most of us have a preferred racking style, even down to which way we clip the draws on gear loops (I always clip mine with gate facing out). When climbing cracks, having a consistent, good racking system can make the difference between cruising and [...]
Hi Steph! After 5 years of sport climbing I am moving onto trad, which has opened up for me so many possibilities in the mountain. I’ve learned mostly through trial and error, so your articles about thin cracks have been really useful! At least they helped me up a 400mt wall I climbed this weekend [...]
Hey Steph- I enjoy reading your blog and reading your advice/articles about crack climbing. I have been crack climbing for a month and with a lot of practice, I have gotten pretty comfortable with hand/foot/toe jamming, but finger cracks still humble me. Any general advice/tips you could give me on finger cracks would be treated [...]
Hi Steph, After a winter of learning to climb indoor cracks (wood, plastic and whatever unearthly material they use at Momentum), I’m anxious to try my hand (and foot) in stone at the Creek. Although I’m now pretty decent at clambering up human made cracks, I have no delusions that I can/should lead anything in [...]
Hi Steph ~ As you know per tweets from @libraryscene, I loved your book! It has inspired me to revisit an old dream and, perhaps make a few new ones. I’m a complete climbing novice flatlander, but we do have a decent climbing facility. I’m pretty strong upper body, but I was humbled by the [...]
Hi Steph, I’m sure your tired of asking gear questions? You said you size all your shoes half size down accept long all day easier, in which you size the same size as your street shoe. My only question to you is the use and sizing of moccasyns for crack climbing. I assume you want [...]
Hi Steph, I read High Infatuation for the first time last year and have probably read it at least a dozen times since. I was so happy to read about another girl who felt like I did about the wilderness! I especially loved some of the more poetic writing, particularly “We’ve Always Run”. As a [...]
Hey Steph, I saw a photo on your Facebook page recently and it looked like you were wearing the Five Ten Projects on a desert crack climb (I think on Castleton). I thought that was interesting- a soft bouldering shoe for crack climbs. Do you wear those often in the desert? Samuel Hi Samuel, The [...]