The Best Crack Climbing Shoes?

Hi Steph:
You don’t know me, but I saw your blog on Crack climbing while looking for some good information on taping, shoes, etc. Thanks for all the good advice in there. However, I was curious about the Five Ten Moccasyms shoes. I have never been able to wear Five Ten (too narrow and low volume of a foot), but am looking for a good crack climbing shoe. What makes the Moccasyms superior for crack climbing (i.e. are they soft? Is there something else that is special about them?)?
P.S. I saw the photos of you soloing the Diamond from Brian Kimball. They were an inspiration!
Tina

Dear Tina,
Thanks! Yes, Brian is a great photographer, as well as an awesome friend. I thought he did an amazing job taking those photos, especially since he highly disapproves of me free soloing, as he’s told me many times

I have worn Five Ten shoes since I started climbing, and I have very narrow feet. Five Ten has a line of shoes made on a specific last (a foot-shaped mold) which is extra narrow–all the Anasazi shoes. So these shoes–Anasazi velcros, lace-ups, zlippers, slippers and moccasyms–are all very low volume. In fact, they recently started to make a special “men’s” velcro, since some people have wider feet. The women’s velcro LV (low volume) is the same Anasazi velcro I know and love, but with a few improvements such as the heel shape.

The amazing thing about the moccasym is that it does stretch and quickly fits to shape your foot, so even people with wide feet are able to wear it. The reason it is superior for crack climbing is that it is soft, has no laces or extra bulk, and has a technical enough shape to the toe to be able to use the occasional footholds you find around the cracks. It smears incredibly well also. Above all, the shoe is extremely comfortable, and allows you to get as much of your foot as possible into the crack. The only problem I have with the moccasym is that it is leather, unlike all the other Anasazis and most of Five Ten’s hiking shoes (yay Five Ten!!). I don’t buy leather shoes or any other animal-products for fashion or everyday use, but I do continue to use the moccasyms. However Five Ten has offered to make me a pair out of the synthetic material they use for the rest of the Anasazi shoes, and I think that’s a fantastic idea!

Next time you are at REI, take a few moments to try on the Anasazi women’s velcros (for sport climbing and granite), and a pair of moccasyms (for cracks, gym climbing and easy alpine rock). I think you will be really surprised at how well they fit narrow feet.
Have fun out there!
xxSteph