Comments on: Weight Training for Climbing 102 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/ A climber and jumper Sat, 11 Feb 2012 02:29:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: Training and Injury | Steph Davis - High Places http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-19239 Training and Injury | Steph Davis - High Places Fri, 29 Apr 2011 17:08:39 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-19239 [...] I was recovering from the ACL surgery, I also used the weight room a lot, every day, in fact. I did tons of pullups and also did fingerboard workouts, since the only [...] [...] I was recovering from the ACL surgery, I also used the weight room a lot, every day, in fact. I did tons of pullups and also did fingerboard workouts, since the only [...]

]]> By: Plateaus, Peaks and Valleys | Steph Davis - High Places http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-14721 Plateaus, Peaks and Valleys | Steph Davis - High Places Thu, 23 Dec 2010 19:59:09 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-14721 [...] along with rotation for diversity is always good. I have a few blog posts on this site about weight training and fingerboard workouts that could give you a place to [...] [...] along with rotation for diversity is always good. I have a few blog posts on this site about weight training and fingerboard workouts that could give you a place to [...]

]]> By: Training By Climbing 103 | Steph Davis - High Places http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-3666 Training By Climbing 103 | Steph Davis - High Places Mon, 01 Mar 2010 05:01:21 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-3666 [...] only three miles from my house, the Tombstone was a perfect addition to climbing on my wall and weight lifting. I really love climbing by myself, whether it’s free soloing or roped mini-traxion on a hard [...] [...] only three miles from my house, the Tombstone was a perfect addition to climbing on my wall and weight lifting. I really love climbing by myself, whether it’s free soloing or roped mini-traxion on a hard [...]

]]> By: Training in the Gym | High Places http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-3039 Training in the Gym | High Places Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:37:58 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-3039 [...] lesson of live) and i hope to meet you one day. take care raoul. Ciao Raoul! I have written about the way I lift weights in an earlier post in case you want to check it out, and I am glad to get your letter because I just started into the [...] [...] lesson of live) and i hope to meet you one day. take care raoul. Ciao Raoul! I have written about the way I lift weights in an earlier post in case you want to check it out, and I am glad to get your letter because I just started into the [...]

]]> By: rockgrrl http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-2131 rockgrrl Mon, 09 Mar 2009 18:52:36 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-2131 Great article! I'm happy to see I use the same machines at my gym. I'm going to alter my sequencing a little though to mirror yours. I followed the link Chris Dahms suggested to you they seem sound and familiar (after a rotator cuff injury I had some exercises recommended to me). Great article! I’m happy to see I use the same machines at my gym. I’m going to alter my sequencing a little though to mirror yours.

I followed the link Chris Dahms suggested to you they seem sound and familiar (after a rotator cuff injury I had some exercises recommended to me).

]]> By: Steph Davis http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-2130 Steph Davis Mon, 09 Mar 2009 18:23:03 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-2130 I hope you will try it! And yes, the weights I described was just to give an example of ranges I'm doing. I'm sure the weight I'm using is very light, for someone with more upper body strength, so don't get hung up on the examples in this post. Like I said, it's more about a concept, and just getting into the weight room. Definitely, do whatever feels good to you...start really light, and ease into things. It's all about progression, and starting somewhere, wherever that is. :) S I hope you will try it! And yes, the weights I described was just to give an example of ranges I’m doing. I’m sure the weight I’m using is very light, for someone with more upper body strength, so don’t get hung up on the examples in this post. Like I said, it’s more about a concept, and just getting into the weight room. Definitely, do whatever feels good to you…start really light, and ease into things. It’s all about progression, and starting somewhere, wherever that is.
:) S

]]> By: hmf http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-2127 hmf Mon, 09 Mar 2009 02:39:13 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-2127 thank you for providing such an interesting post on weight training - it's very informative & helpful thank you for providing such an interesting post on weight training – it’s very informative & helpful

]]> By: l0k1 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-2126 l0k1 Sun, 08 Mar 2009 18:23:02 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-2126 good grief. just for kicks, i measured around the largest part of my bicep: 9 whole inches, 80% of it flab and 20% of it bone. i'd say i have the arms of an 8-year-old child, but most 8-year-olds i know are stronger than i am. i'm going to try this workout, but with about 75% of the weight knocked off (which, in some cases, will just mean moving my arms up and down all by themselves). good grief. just for kicks, i measured around the largest part of my bicep: 9 whole inches, 80% of it flab and 20% of it bone. i’d say i have the arms of an 8-year-old child, but most 8-year-olds i know are stronger than i am. i’m going to try this workout, but with about 75% of the weight knocked off (which, in some cases, will just mean moving my arms up and down all by themselves).

]]> By: Mountain Climbing Fitness for Flatlanders | Never Stop Climbing http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-2125 Mountain Climbing Fitness for Flatlanders | Never Stop Climbing Sun, 08 Mar 2009 16:00:50 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-2125 [...] Update Check out the awesome Steph Davis’ post on weight training for climbers. [...] [...] Update Check out the awesome Steph Davis’ post on weight training for climbers. [...]

]]> By: Steph Davis http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/weight-training-for-climbing-102/comment-page-1/#comment-2123 Steph Davis Sun, 08 Mar 2009 15:27:38 +0000 http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/?p=1762#comment-2123 Chris Dahms sent in a very thorough and useful description of super-specific lifting theory and suggestions. Thank you Chris, for this great information! Unfortunately, it is too long for the comment box to handle, so here is one segment, and a link he provided: "I like how you pair pushing a pulling exercises, it allows more rest between exercises and there is evidence that exhausting agonists (say for example your pecs/shoulders/triceps during presses) increases your ability to recruit antagonists for a short while after (the lats and biceps here). Semi-pronated (hands facing each other), and totally pronated (palms down) curls are more sport specific for climbing, they target brachioradialis and brachialis which are the primary arm flexors (not the biceps interestingly enough) Something I didn't see you mention which I think most climbers need is direct work of the external rotation muscles (suprasprinatus, infrasprinatus, subscapularis, teres minor) as they stabilize the shoulder. Climbers tend to do a lot of work on the major internal rotators of the shoulder (lats, pecs) and I often see deficiencies in their external rotation strength inhibit their climbing progress through injury, lack of strength gains and shoulder instability. Charles poliquin has done some extensive research on how balance between strength ratios can inhibit maximal performance in athletes, this article outlines how he took a hockey players bench press from 280 pounds to 380 pounds in 4 months, without him benching for the first 3 months and concenrating on external rotation exercises. http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/sports_body_training_performance/achieving_structural_balance" Chris Dahms sent in a very thorough and useful description of super-specific lifting theory and suggestions. Thank you Chris, for this great information!
Unfortunately, it is too long for the comment box to handle, so here is one segment, and a link he provided:
“I like how you pair pushing a pulling exercises, it allows more rest between exercises and there is evidence that exhausting agonists (say for example your pecs/shoulders/triceps during presses) increases your ability to recruit antagonists for a short while after (the lats and biceps here).
Semi-pronated (hands facing each other), and totally pronated (palms down) curls are more sport specific for climbing, they target brachioradialis and brachialis which are the primary arm flexors (not the biceps interestingly enough)
Something I didn’t see you mention which I think most climbers need is direct work of the external rotation muscles (suprasprinatus, infrasprinatus, subscapularis, teres minor) as they stabilize the shoulder. Climbers tend to do a lot of work on the major internal rotators of the shoulder (lats, pecs) and I often see deficiencies in their external rotation strength inhibit their climbing progress through injury, lack of strength gains and shoulder instability.
Charles poliquin has done some extensive research on how balance between strength ratios can inhibit maximal performance in athletes, this article outlines how he took a hockey players bench press from 280 pounds to 380 pounds in 4 months, without him benching for the first 3 months and concenrating on external rotation exercises.
http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/sports_body_training_performance/achieving_structural_balance“

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