Why Do They Fall?

Posted on Jan 27th, 2011 | 4 comments
Why Do They Fall?

Hi Steph,
I’m a 30 year old Estonian fitness enthusiast living in Australia. I’ve taken up climbing. I find climbing without rope very natural, honest and sober. I’ve been climbing a few meters high horizontally to train technique.

Naturally, my climbs get higher and harder all the time. A quick look on the Internet gave me the impression that many free solo climbers have fallen and died. That is something I’d like to avoid in the future.

Why do you think they fall?
Best wishes,
Alvin

Dear Alvin,
As with all simple questions, I find this very profound. The main thing I would say about free soloing is that nobody is perfect. In doing things with big consequences, there has to be a lot of margin for error. In my opinion, free soloing should always be done at a level far below one’s best climbing level, because that is one way to build in margin.
Even so, nobody’s perfect.
Steph

  • Greg

    I think the other to mention when talking about why people fall, free soloing is the fate factor. Rocks can crumble causing a climber to loose footing, rocks can fall from the top.

    When talking of mitigating risk how does one factor in “fate”?

  • http://topsy.com/www.highinfatuation.com/blog/why-do-they-fall/?utm_source=pingback&utm_campaign=L2 Tweets that mention Why Do They Fall? | Steph Davis – High Places — Topsy.com

    [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by steph davis and The Gearcaster – Amy, Boat. Boat said: You're too kind, I would say 'because they have no rope.' RT @highsteph: free soloists: why do they fall? http://tinyurl.com/4kgsem8 #climb [...]

  • gordon

    I think part of the thrill of free soloing is pushing the limits of your comfort zone. Barefoot and ropeless gives much more of an andrenaline rush than leading with full gear, even if the climbs are miles apart in technical difficulty. Steph is right, though. Stay well within your comfort zone. If you want to reduce the risk of death yet still want to free solo, try climbing technical climbs with a slight overhang above water. These “O” grade climbs are great for technique building, and the risk of death even from a relatively high fall is nominal. Just make sure you have surface support, someone you trust that is in eyeline at all times. I suggest a canoe plus packs, couple of dry towels, a good friend, and a thermos.
    Enjoy dude, and be safe.

  • Anonymous

    Good question too..

  • Florinbejerea

    Why do they fall? Because g=9.8m/s can be your worst enemy. It also your best friend since it helps us stay on this planet; without gravity we would fly into space.

    But on a personal level, so many thoughts can go through your head- unrelated to climbing- and therefore you loose your focus. You have to be in it 100%. No mistakes, no grabbing on a loose rock, no distraction(other people watching sometimes increases your ego beyond where you need it to be). Just you and the rock, nobody and nothing else matters…Calm, fluid, confident, precise, honest, humble, afraid, aware…no underestimating, no overestimating the difficulty of the climb….an almost perfect mental balance that sometimes you lose it when you least expect it…But the ‘g ‘ is always there, never resting, almost waiting for a mistake, a fatal move or happening (a rock that might fall from above even though it never did before).

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