Latest Posts

crush the skull

Advice for Women in Dealing With Muscle-y Routes

Apr 11, 2015

Hi Steph, I was wondering if you had any advice pertaining to how to build fitness and upper body strength as a female, and/or just in general how excel at more “muscle-y” routes. I’m a female climber at Carleton College, a small school in the Midwest where I started climbing about two years ago. I love climbing and I think- or I hope!- I’ve advanced a lot since I started. However, I would really like to push my skills to the next level. My strength seems to lie in delicate, balance-y routes, probably because I’m tall (5’10”), fairly flexible, and…


Car Living and Dogs

Apr 7, 2015

Hi Steph, My names Shannon, and right now I’m a senior at CU Boulder studying evolutionary biology and ecology. I just read your book high infatuation, and i guess you could say it was kinda life changing and spoke to me. I just started rock climbing about three months ago, and I love it. When i visited moab, I fell in love with indian creek and that type of climbing. I would really love to move out there and dedicate myself to that type of climbing. However, I am still a beginner and do not even know how to trad…

chris teaching fingers

Best Tape for Crack Climbing

Apr 5, 2015

Hi Steph, I’m new to crack climbing, and understand full well the value in choosing the stickiest tape money can buy. The problem is, after some experimenting with a number of generic tape brands out there, I still haven’t found one that fully satisfies all my criteria. I’m curious to hear what you use or recommend. Any thoughts? -Chris Hi Chris, You’re right, stickiness is EVERYTHING when it comes to tape for crack climbing. I always tell people, you can tape before you rip your skin off or you can tape after you rip your skin off. Tape sticks a…


Flying Life

Apr 1, 2015

Guest post from my good friend Jeff Shapiro, who has dedicated his life to flying and climbing in many forms, and is also a truly lovely human, animal steward, husband and dad I think he has some great advice for living a balanced and passionate life in the sky and on the ground. Hey Steph my name is Gus i am a nineteen year old kid who just moved up to the North Georgia mountains to attend college. I have lived in South Georgia for a better part of my life and got the opportunity to come up here to…


Hario Coffee Dripper and Stand

Mar 28, 2015

I love things that are simple, well made and do the job perfectly. Somehow a nice coffee maker always makes you happy every time you use it The Hario Coffee Dripper and Stand are Japanese made (naturally), sturdy, lovely and elegantly practical. I’ve always had a firm policy that any coffee maker I own should not have a plug and should be equally at home on a picnic table or a tailgate as in a kitchen. I’ve gone through different coffee phases, and for many years was firmly attached to my stovetop espresso maker. I don’t drink coffee all the…

auto belay

Auto Belay Machines: Awesome or Terrifying?

Mar 27, 2015

Andrew Bisharat, climber and writer extraordinaire, dog papa, crusher at Rifle, and blogger at Evening Sends is one of my favorite people ever! He has never once failed to make me fall on the floor laughing when I read his Facebook status updates. And he not only agreed to write a guest post, but he did it in less than 12 hours, while on a climbing trip to Lebanon. Andrew, you are the best I agree with everything Andrew thinks, and especially about Auto Belay Machines…which I find simultaneously awesome and terrifying. Steph, Good evening. I’m curious to know your…

Cascade Section American Alpine Club

Mar 26, 2015

I truly enjoyed your presentation at the AAC Cascade Section dinner last night! You are very articulate, and the intellectual and philosophical content of your presentation was a breath of fresh air for an old man like me who has attended too many mountaineering presentations…. Thanks! Mark Thank you Mark, I really appreciate that! Steph

belay glasses

Y&Y Belay Glasses

Mar 25, 2015

I am a real convert to belay glasses, and Y&Y sent me this pair of Bordeaux Red Colorful Belay Glasses to test out. If you have not started using belay glasses, you should get some immediately if not sooner!! They’re simple to use, they save your neck, and they make it possible to watch your climber like a hawk, which is much safer and more polite. The Y&Y glasses have some wonderful features. They’re very light, which is of major importance for me. I don’t like the feeling of heavy glasses pushing on my nose or sliding, and so belay…


JOBY Action Grip

Mar 21, 2015

I admit I was initially doubtful about the relevance of this little item. I’ve been using my hands (and helmet) to hold my Contour and other cameras for quite some time now, and I wondered if I really needed a 6 inch additional handle. It turns out that the JOBY Action Grip is a very handy little item, and at just over 3 ounces, I find it well worth the weight for a few climbing and base specific uses. It screws directly into both my Contour and Sony NEX-6, and thanks to the handle and the strap, makes it really…


Mar 20, 2015

Steph I felt such a tremendous amount of positive energy after watching a few of your videos and doing some reading about you that I felt led to tell you “Thank You”. You’re an inspiration. Ive been in US Army Special Forces for 13 years now, and cannot wait to get out. I’m highly interested in attending one of your courses. Keep motivating those of us scratching and pawing to live as you do. Have a wonderful day and hope to see you soon. VR Wil Hi Wil, Thanks very much for taking the time to write to me: I…