Climbing Health Care: Belayer’s Neck

Hey Steph,
thanks for always inspiring…everyone at prAna told me how amazing you are and it’s great to see you always rockin it out there. I have a climbing question for you since I am relatively new to lead climbing and heard some contradictory advice. My boyfriend and I have been debating this over and over and he finally said: “Just ask Steph Davis” which seemed like a bizarre solution but thanks to the miracles of internet, is actually kinda possible.

So here it goes….

If you are belaying someone on lead (our situation was specific to sport climbing but would be curious for sport or lead) and they are climbing rather slow, taking their time- is it ok to look down and watch the rope to protect your neck every now and then. So that it doesn’t get too stiff and lock up- hindering your ability to safely belay them?

I had a couple friends tell me yes, as that’s what you also have to do when your climber is out of site, but my partner, Ben got really upset with me and said it was unsafe. I never felt his safety was compromised by doing this and I would always look up when he said “watch me” I could just feel my neck locking up and my eyes starting to hurt from looking up at the sun as well and thought it best to take breaks from always looking up to preserve myself for his safety. So we’re just curious on your take on it- any advice would be so appreciated!
Thanks for listening,
-adi

Dear Adi,
Thanks for writing me! I laughed a lot when I read this, because recently I have been discussing this very issue a lot with my friends! And also because it reminds me of a question on Car Talk, except my brother and I aren’t quite that funny, so I’ll just try to answer this on my own

But your question is great. Especially because as a climber, I’ve always felt that preventative health care is our best bet….which seems even more true recently.

I climb a lot at Rifle, where one of my most important pieces of gear is my folding belay chair. Sometimes belays can become pretty lengthy, and it hurts my neck to look up all the time. If I sit in the chair and put my head back on top of the back rest, it doesn’t hurt my neck at all, and I can stare at every single micro-move my friend is making

However, there are definitely times when the belay chair is not appropriate. If a person is doing their hardest redpoint or onsight attempt, if there is a safety issue between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to the ground, if there’s a very scary section of the route….they want to know your eyes are glued to them, and you are ready to either pull rope in or out as necessary. Also, my friend Lisa, has a strong (irrational, according to me!) dislike of the belay chair. So when I belay her, I never sit in my chair

I think a good way to deal with saving your neck versus keeping your climbing partner out of a panic is to discuss the pitch before he leaves the ground. You know you need to be extra attentive for the first couple of bolts or pieces, where there is ground fall potential. You can also usually tell where the cruxes are going to be on the pitch, just by looking, and especially if this is a redpoint attempt. So ask your partner where the hardest parts will be for them, or where they need something special from the belay. Usually when I am climbing with someone much heavier or lighter than me, we both discuss that, just to feel confident that the belayer remembers to either give more or less slack for a fall, depending on the weight difference. We all know we all know this stuff, but it’s always good to take a minute to make sure everyone is thinking the same thing. Because it’s all about the peace of mind once you leave the ground.

And then, yes, you are going to need to rest your neck or blink occasionally while you are belaying. You’re not bionic! And half the time, you can’t actually see someone on a pitch anyway. That’s why you keep your hand on the brake end, and/or use a grigri. But if you reviewed the pitch together first, your partner knows you are going to be extra attentive in the cruxes. Hopefully over time, there will be enough repetition and comfort level between you, that both of you will be able to relax and trust the belay and just be able to focus on the climbing. Usually after a while, you get used to climbing with someone, and know they are going to catch you.
Stay safe!
Steph